Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2021

The William Fevre estate owns more than 70 hectares in the heart of the Chablis vineyard, of which more than half are in Premier Crus and Grand Crus. From manual harvesting to ageing in vats and neutral oak casks, everything is geared to fully express the characteristics of each appellation and to preserve terroirs and natural balances. One of the greatest domains in Chablis. Founded by William Fevre in 1957, its vineyard holdings include 12 hectares of premier cru and 16 hectares of grand Cru vines. The domain’s fruit is harvested by hand, a rarity in Chablis, and rigorously sorted at the winery to ensure the highest quality. In recent times the amount of new oak used has been cut back and today the average age of the barrels in the cellar is five years. From the Petit Chablis to the domains’ six Grand Cru wines, the quality is superb and the range from Domaine William Fevre is a benchmark for the wines of the region. Today vineyards are managed meticulously by Didier Séguier. Limiting yields is a given, and the vines have been cultivated using organic methods for many years. The domain as well as hand harvesting there is rigorous sorting, with a great attention to detail at every stage of the process. Domaine William Fevre has been practicing sustainable growing in its vineyards for nearly 10 years now, achieving “High Environmental Value” (HVE) status, the highest level of environmental certification since 2015. With its terroir split into two parts on either side of the Sainte Vaubourg fountain path, it has slightly deeper clay-limestone soils than the other Grands Crus. Its shape is reminiscent of a small valley hence the name “Valmur”. The 2021 vintage is relatively accessible. Even the more structured grand crus will come around much sooner than the 2020s, drinking well from 2026 or 2027, with an aging potential of ten years for premiers crus and between ten and 15 years for grands crus—longer under Diam closures, which I would like to see more producers using. Fèvre led the way, and others, including Louis Michel, are following. Regarding vinification, generally gravity is favoured over pumps which could harm the quality of the wine. Brief and gentle (1½ – 2 hours) pneumatic pressing to obtain a gentle separation of the solid and liquid parts of the grape. Very light static settling of the juice to preserve enough fine lees so that the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations can occur naturally. The must is run into French oak barrels (aged of 6 years in average) for 60 to 70% of the harvest. The remainder is vinified in small stainless steel vats. For maturation, the wine receives 14 to 15 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels, for 60 to 70% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless steel vats. Didier Séguier describes the house elevage process and its relationship to terroir expression, “Everything is fermented and undergoes malolactic in tank, after which the premiers and grands crus have 30% oak-aging, but never in new oak, rather in barrels between three and four years old, inherited from sister-house Bouchard Père et Fils. It is only for the exchange with oxygen, which helps the expression of terroir. I want to stay focused on freshness.” There’s an effortlessly charming bouquet with astonishing fruitiness and persistent minerality. The powerful, well-defined palate that lacks neither elegance nor roundness. Nose – Alpine Freshness, Sea Shell, White Flowers Very engaging marine, oyster shell scents, lemon, and white lilies Palate – Full, Layered, Chiselled The palate is very well balanced with ripe pear and a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh Finish – Saline, Spice, Baked Apple Long and focussed, dry and saline Didier Séguier’s 2021 Valmur is a stellar wine in the making. The bouquet is deep and precise, offering up scents of pear, apple, lemon, white lilies, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones, lime peel and just a hint of smokiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and complex, with excellent soil signature and grip, a fine core of fruit, bright acids and a long, focused and seamlessly balanced finish. – John Gilman, Kermit Lynch, 95+ Points. Hailing from the summit of the Valmur valley, these vines unusually have east, southeast and west exposures. There is also a vein of marl that stretches across this section that gives this Valmur noticeably more weight. It showcases the finessed and elegant side of Valmur, but with a heft more typical of Preuses. There is plentiful ripe pear fruit here and a dry, saline finish. – Tim Atkin, Kermit Lynch, 95