Penfolds has been a pioneer in the world of winemaking since its establishment in 1844 by Dr. Christopher and Mary Penfold. The company’s success has been driven by a lineage of visionary winemakers who have pushed the development of the company to extraordinary, bold new heights. Mary Penfold’s reign at the helm of Penfolds saw years of determination and endeavour, experimenting with new methods in wine production. In 1948, Max Schubert became the company’s first Chief Winemaker and he propelled Penfolds onto the global stage with his experimentation of long-lasting wines – the creation of Penfolds Grange in the 1950s. Soon, the medals began flowing, and Grange quickly became one of the most revered wines around the world. In 2012, Penfolds released its most innovative project to date – 12 handcrafted ampoules of the rare 2004 Kalimna Block Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, Penfolds continues to hold dear the philosophies and legends that have driven the company’s success since its establishment in 1844.
Penfold’s Grange is Australia’s most revered wine, and its creation represents a distillation of Max Schubert’s ambition for Australian wine. Schubert joined Penfolds as a messenger boy in 1931 and by 1948, he became Penfolds’ first Chief Winemaker. In the latter part of 1950, Schubert was sent to Europe to investigate winemaking practices in Spain and Portugal. On a side trip to Bordeaux, Schubert was inspired and impressed by the French cellared-style wines and dreamed of making ‘something different and lasting’ of his own. Combining traditional Australian techniques, inspiration from Europe and precision winemaking practices developed at Penfolds, Schubert made his first experimental wine in 1951. In 1957, Schubert was asked to show his efforts in Sydney to top management, invited wine identities and personal friends of the board. To his horror, the Grange experiment was universally disliked and Schubert was ordered to shut down the project. Max continued to craft his Grange vintages in secret, hiding three vintages ’57, ’58 and ’59, in the depths of the cellars. Eventually, the Penfolds board ordered production of Grange to restart, just in time for the 1960 vintage. From then on, international acknowledgment and awards were bestowed on Grange, including the 1990 vintage of Grange, which was named Wine Spectator’s Red Wine of the Year in 1995. Today, Grange’s reputation as one of the world’s most celebrated wines continues to grow. On its 50th birthday in 2001, Grange was listed as a South Australian heritage icon, while the 2008 Grange vintage achieved a perfect score of 100 points by two of the world’s most influential wine magazines. With every new generation of Penfolds winemakers, Max Schubert’s remarkable vision is nurtured and strengthened. Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz is the benchmark by which all other reds in Australia and overseas are often measured. This wine has many reasons for its success, including concentration of flavour, complexity and longevity. Grange blossoms with 15 to 20 years of bottle age, when most other reds have passed their best and better vintages can live and continue developing for decades longer. The Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz 2019 is deep, dark and bright, the nose is automatically recognisable – formic and glacial higher notes – not quite as audacious as a fleeting perception of heady spirit (a la Cognac), and yet not just simple. Beneath, a more familial oaked nuttiness (hazelnut?) recedes to reveal aromas of black licorice/anise/black olive. A shroud of condensed glazed fruits surrenders to reveal a fresher disposition…a coulis of berries and stone fruits; boiled beetroot. Unsurprisingly wafts of coffee-grind, pan-scrapings/jus also ascend, hovering over a persistent base of cold lamb fat and marrow. Upon sitting, a sprinkle of lavender and exotic spices almost completes the aromatic package – well, at least for another minute or two. And then… Early days. On the palate there is cohesion, vigour, sheen, poise – four borders of a frame that structurally binds the lofty palate ambitions of this South Australian blend. Fresh and balanced. Neither exaggerated nor over-ripe – lively blueberry and other youthful blue/black fruits bely the maturation timeline of this alluring blend. Certainly
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