Savaterre Chardonnay 2022

Savaterre is positioned on an elevated site with amphitheatre views across the King Valley in the rolling peaks and valleys of Beechworth. Located across the road from Giaconda, the site was discovered in 1996 by Keppell Smith, owner and winemaker. The close-planted vineyard is on ancient granitic soils at 440 metre (above sea level) and blessed with mild summer days, cool evenings thanks to the lofty elevation of the Victorian Alps. Viticulture follows low input principles and yields are less than two tonnes/acres. In the cellar, Kepp employs Burgundian techniques with the aid of indigenous yeasts. Each wine, be it Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Shiraz has individuality and striking concentration. Savaterre’s well structured Chardonnay is matured in generous new and seasoned tight grained French oak for up to 19 months. Chardonnay undoubtedly Savaterre’s hero. The Pinot Noir is deep and layered with cherry stone/chocolate aromas and plenty of richness and flavour, and shrewdly bottle aged before release. Finally the Shiraz, or should we say Syrah? Always highly perfumed with distinct red fruit preserve and floral character. Mid weight, velvety, seamless and almost pinot-like in its vibrancy and weightlessness. Super fine tannins and in a neat frame. Savaterre’s elevated, close planted vineyard is farmed with organic principles. No pesticides are used. The soil consists of ancient granitic “buckshot” over decomposed clay. These unique gravels are rich in minerals and provide excellent drainage whilst the clay provides some sustained water to the vines in summer. This ancient, poor soil naturally limits the cropping level to less than 4.5 tons per hectare. The vines are close planted at 7500 vines per hectare . This allows the vine to carry a smaller crop and direct all its energies to producing intense flavours and wonderful textures – traits that are found primarily in only outstanding vineyards. This unique combination of soil, climate and viticulture provides Savaterre with intense fruit of the very highest quality. The grapes are hand picked in the cool of the autumn morning and transported to the winery which is next to the vineyard. Savaterre’s vineyard has been named in the top 25 vineyards in Australia. Keppell describes it as the best chardonnay he’s have ever made. Prodigious from the word go. It grabs you and keeps your attention. It is such a complete and complex tapestry of aromas, flavours and texture. It’s the rare combination of power and amplitude combined with elegance, freshness, precision and tension. It grabs you and keeps your attention. A subtle flint framing ethereal aromas of ripe grapefruit, curry leaf, preserved lemon, ginger, stone fruit, allspice and fennel. Even as a young wine its potential is so obvious. This is a wine that takes you on a journey of power balanced with finesse, complexity and extraordinary length. Constantly evolving and changing. Beautifully defined by its markedly bracing acidity and length. If consuming under 5 years please decant for at least an hour for maximum enjoyment. Although this wine will age beautifully for 20 years. Nose – Ethereal, Flinty and Generous A flint and river stone, ethereal aromas of ripe grapefruit, curry leaf, preserved lemon, ginger, stone fruit, allspice and fennel. Palate – Power, Finesse and Balance Aromatics unfurling further on the palate. Powerful, balanced and finessed, complex with an extraordinary length. Finish – Tension and extraordinary length The finish is constantly evolving and changing between oak spice and enlivening minerality. Beautifully hemmed by its marked acidity and length. Vintage 2022 combined good yields with high quality, which must be something of a relief given the vicissitudes of recent seasons. Who’d be a farmer eh? A little stuck match and funk, pink grapefruit and pear, spicy oak, some ginger, floral perfume sitting quietly behind that, waiting to unfurl. Intense, fine flinty texture and chalky grip, it’s restrained, but the power through the palate, and the length is quite something. Sappy and alive. Here’s a Chardonnay of quiet power and finesse. It’s benchmark stuff – Gary Walsh, The Winefront, 97 Points. Damn this is reductive, demanding an aggressive decant, or an eagle eye in the cellar and plenty of patience. Yet the material lurking behind this flinty, terse carapace is thoroughly impressive: pithy stone fruits, anise, glazed quince and citrus marmalade. Thrilling levels of sheer extract, intensity and length, to boot. Trust me. WAIT! Drinkable now, but best from 2027 – Ned Goodwin MW, JamesSuckling.com, 96 Points. Exceptional style and class through and through…A thrilling ride awaits with a deep dive into arresting aromas filled with white flowers, stone fruits, Meyer lemon, nougat, almond meal and spice. Floats dreamily on the palate,